How to plan your sewing projects

Don't get me wrong - Making your own clothes is SO FULFILLING. But without a plan, creatives tend to end up with a bin full of unfinished projects.. solely because they didn't plan well. We often start things and come up against a single complexity, and, well, there goes all motivation to finish. So here's my process to combat that (and give you the garment you set out to make, rather than another unfinished unwearable object to cast away into the depths of the shame bin).

Whether you're a seasoned seamstress or just entering the world of handmade making, careful planning is key to a workable, wearable design. This will guide you through the process of planning a sewing project or design, from choosing a pattern to gathering materials to getting the measurements you'll need. Let's get started!



The first step in planning any sewing project is to choose what you want to make. Consider your skill level, available time, upcoming season, and what your sewing machine can do (ie: denim is hard on home sewing machines). Browse through pattern catalogs, online platforms, or even sketch out your own design. Think about the purpose of the project and who it's for, be it clothing, home decor, or accessories.

If you're designing a wearable garment, keep in mind what season you'll wear it in, because it'll help you choose the right fabric for the project. Most of the time, when people are new to creating their own clothing, they choose the wrong fabrics for their projects. It's a huge bummer because you don't want to put all that work (and let's be honest, money in supplies) into creating a handmade garment that isn't really wearable solely because you chose a woven when you should've chosen a knit.




A good place to start is big box fabric stores pattern section. While I haven't bought a pattern in years (mostly because it's easier for me to draft what I want myself at this point!), stores like JoAnn's give you the opportunity to get inspired by various cut and fits - and most of all, provide you with a basic pattern block that will help you piece together the garment you really want.

The more you play with store patterns (like McCalls, Simplicity, or Butterick), the more familiarized you are with how clothes are actually constructed. You'll become more confident in what collars work with what sleeves, what kind of plackets are needed, etc. So regardless of whether or not you want to customize a pattern or draft one yourself from scratch, using a store-bought paper pattern is a fantastic start to guide you in getting a basic fitting garment, an even help you with your fabric selection specific to the garment you want.




This is the part that helps you retain your sanity later. If your pattern says what you need, you can simply copy it to create a supplies shopping list to go off of. Any sort of structure garment will need stabilizer, which means you've got to buy the right stabilizer for the project (fusible or non-fusible, non-stretch or knitwear stabilizer, etc). You may even need grosgrain i you'r making a formal gown, and if so, you'll most likely n boning to create structure inside the garment too.

Next, create a comprehensive list of all the materials you'll need for your project. This includes fabric, thread, zippers, buttons, interfacing, snaps (snap tools, too), hook & eyes, tailoring chalk to mark fabric, and stabilizer if needed. Consider the type and quantity of fabric needed, as well as the color, print, and texture that best suits your vision. Don't forget to include tools such as scissors, pins, a measuring tape (if you don't have one already). I always make a list of ALL supplies I need, then go through my own stash to see what I already have on-hand before going shopping or ordering supplies. You'll learn pretty quick just how pricy materials are if you're shopping locally, so this is also a great place for finding comparable materials and supplies online and ordering swatches first before you pull the trigger on yardage. Shopping online fabric stores also gives you the opportunity to come up with something even more original than you would have by simply staying local (unless you hav access to a garment district!).



If you're sewing clothing or accessories, accurate measurements are crucial. Take measurements of the intended recipient or yourself, following a pattern's measurement guide. Ensure that you measure bust, waist, hips, and any other relevant body parts. Record these measurements on paper or in a digital format to refer back to during the project. My personal favorite format for this? The sewing planner I designed while quarantining. After years of buying crappy ones, I can confirm- my sewing planner is the ultimate guide to planning your personal sewing projects. 










I know what I said - trust the store-bought patterns, they are your friend, etc, blah blah blah.

Always fact check the pattern you plan to use. If it's vintage (or simply hasn't been update, then the measurements may not accurately reflect the size, and your finished garment could be all wrong. Whenever I use a store-bought pattern, the first thing I do is pull every piece out of the sleeve and walk the pattern. This means I'll line up the side seams of fronts to backs, collars to necklines, inseams and outseams to be sure they truly do match. This step is critical even moreso for internet home-printed sewing patterns because sometimes, pattern pieces get warped in the printing process on home printers.

Then, before cutting my pieces, I take some rough flat measurements. For instance, if my bust is 34", I'll measure the bust area of the front and back pattern pieces and make sure it matches what the pattern says, an ensure the size is correct. In the past I've not one this step, and found out the hard way that the pattern was off by inches - I had to start all over. Check all your basic measurements against the pattern to be sure this really is the correct size for you. If one size up fits you everywhere but the chest, or the hip, then all you'll nee to o is graded that area by shaving off paper in that region of the paper pattern. While I on't want to get into pattern troubleshooting here, I do want to head off obvious issues from the start to save you on time an patience :)




For complex or customized projects, consider creating a mock-up or a toile before cutting into your main fabric. This step allows you to test the fit and make any necessary adjustments without wasting your precious fabric. Use inexpensive muslin (cotton)  or a similar fabric to create the mock-up, following the pattern instructions. This extra step can save time and frustration in the long run, because oftentimes those pattern instructions suck, or aren't in the correct order.

Read through the pattern instructions thoroughly before starting. Take it step by step, referring to the illustrations or diagrams as needed. Pay attention to any specific techniques or markings mentioned in the instructions. Take breaks when needed, and don't rush the process. Enjoy the journey and celebrate each milestone as you progress towards completing your project.




This is the fun part! Try on garments or test out your product - wear it for a little while so that you truly can spot fit issues and imperfections. This is where you can be picky - sit, stand, move around and look for any pinching, riding up, smile lines, frowning lines, etc. You can make as many changes as needed to your muslin before applying them back to your pattern, and recutting the garment out of your chosen fabric.




Making your project the second time around is easy! Follow the instructions again, using what you now know to put together the pieces using your chosen supplies. Go the extra mile with the types of seams you choose - whether you decide to fully bind your seams, or french seam, or simply serge raw edges - after all, you want your handmade garment to last! Finish out your project by adding and necessary hook & eyes, zippers or other fastenings.






After wearing your garment for a while, you'll come up with ways to improve it, be it in quality or fit. Make a note so that should you create the design again, or make an iteration of it with style changes, you won't forget to implement important changes on the next go-round.


Happy making!

1. Choose a design to start on

2. start with a pattern

3. Make a supplies list

4. Take measurements

5. fact check your sewing pattern

6. make a muslin (a mock-up)

7. make fit/pattern changes

8. make the garment again, using your chosen supplies

9. make a note on your pattern if you would change anything about the garment, should you want to make it again